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Conversations with Kate Koo

Today we’d like to introduce you to Kate Koo.

Hi Kate , we’re thrilled to have a chance to learn your story today. So, before we get into specifics, maybe you can briefly walk us through how you got to where you are today?
I began in sushi serendipitously after applying to a Japanese restaurant as a server but getting hired as a sushi chef. 26 years ago, I fell in love with sushi immediately. The colors, textures, and flavors were all intriguing but it was the discipline required and methodical nature of the craft which really spoke to me. Sushi is a never-ending journey toward perfection that will never be attained. While this may sound discouraging, I have found that it is, in fact, the opposite. Having a goal that moves but arriving at benchmark achievements gives true purpose. I spent the next 8 years working at a variety of sushi bars until I landed at Zilla Sake in 2008. During those years I also graduated from the University of Hawaii with a B.A. in Linguistics and spent a short time in international fish purchasing and importing. In 2008 I started the sushi program at Zilla and then bought the restaurant in January of 2016. Although my goals have diversified over the last decade, I still work as a sushi chef and have never lost sight of that original motivation of constant improvement.

I’m sure it wasn’t obstacle-free, but would you say the journey has been fairly smooth so far?
In the beginning of my career I found that sushi is not always welcoming to women chefs. Needing to prove myself over and over has been frustrating at times but has also fueled a passion to work diligently to change the perspective of women in this industry. More recently, the acceptance of women in sushi has grown considerably and there is quite a bit of widespread support, even from older sushi chefs with a more traditional background.

As you know, we’re big fans of you and your work. For our readers who might not be as familiar what can you tell them about what you do?
I recently had a conversation with a guest about finding your identity as chef and the process that entails. For me, that has happened in the later part of my career, the last 15 years or so. Zilla is known for being a front-runner in Portland for Omakase and being more traditionally focused in our cuisine. We specialize in simpler flavor combinations than a lot of American sushi bars. It is important to us to let the individual flavors shine and highlight our ingredients in a straightforward way. This posed challenges in the beginning as many potential guests were looking for more familiar American sushi. One of the most significant things we are proud of is our rice. Sushi rice is the foundation for great sushi and we currently use a proprietary recipe with 5 different vinegars to season ours. 4 of these are aged red vinegar made from sake lees which blended together creates a balanced, flavorful rice which complements the fish we use as toppings. In addition, most of our fish is intentionally dry-aged which brings out more natural oils and intensifies flavor.

Networking and finding a mentor can have such a positive impact on one’s life and career. Any advice?
I have found that no matter what experience level a sushi chef has, everyone has the potential to contribute great ideas. Because we all think and operate a little differently even someone who is just starting out might have input which is valuable. The most important thing is to keep an open mind and remember that humility and a beginner’s mindset will allow even an experienced chef to absorb the most knowledge and continue progressing.

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Person in a dark uniform uses a brush to apply sauce to food on a counter.

A person works over a large pot in a kitchen, with steam rising around them.

A person in a dark robe prepares fish on a wooden board at a kitchen counter.

A bowl of sliced fish topped with green leaves and flakes, resting in amber sauce.

A piece of shrimp nigiri topped with green garnish sits on a light surface.

A brush applies paint to a red mouth-shaped object with white teeth resting on a hand.

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